Japan Car

Toutes les FAQ Nissan, merci aux membres du forum qui y ont participé!

• général
  
• Dénominations et caractéristiques des moteurs
  
• realisation apexi induction box
  
• bien choisir son IC
  
• Installation mano T° huile / pression huile
  
• toutes les ref des pieces pour votre nissan
  
• Procédure pour importer une voiture d'Allemagne
  
• correspondance codes moteur
  
• correspondance ecu SR20DET
  
• correspondance ecu CA18DET
  
• Capacité des injecteurs
  
• Tout sur les injecteurs
  
• Swap SR20DET dans primera,100 et autre nissan avec Sr20DE
  
• ou trouver des pieces OEM
  
• systeme de brumisation de l IC
  
• nettoyer son MAF
  
  300ZX
  
  
• tous les "how to" sur la 300zx
  
• passages au banc de 300zx prepa ( 30aines de dyno) + descriptif de modification sur 300ZX
  
  200 SX
  
• Les documentations 200SX S13(+ version francaise) & S14
  
• prepa 300ch sur S14
  
• adaptation d'un pop charger sur un MAF de S14
  
• Base de données des prix pour 200sx
  
• Montage du Catch Tank Cusco sur S13
  
• Installation, réglage de l'AVC-R sur S14
  
• bielles 200sx S13
  
• les differents model de 200sx
  
• Base de données des prix des pièces Nissan 200sx
  
• changer ses coussinets de bielles sur RS13
  
• Bougies RS13
  
• Raideur des différents ressorts en aftermarket
  
• Branchement éclairage de manos sur la lumière du tableau de bord
  
• Pompe walbro sur S13
  
• Maf de Z32 sur S13/S14
  
• Les différents MAF pour Rs13
  
• Montage d'une plaque sandwich
  
• Preparation moteur 200sx s13
  
• Changement embrayage
  
• infos arbre a cam S14
  
• Swap SR20DET dans un S13
  
• suppression EGR S14
  
• principales modifs sur S14 en anglais mais avec photos (Fitting a boost valve,Fitting a boost gauge, Fitting an A'PEXi AVC-R, Fitting a de-cat, Fitting a pigeon, Replacing front disks & pads, Fitting a Walbro, Uprated WMIC, Rear soundproofing, Changing headlight bulbs, Fitting HID Converters, Front strut brace, Coloured spark cover, De-bricking, Re-badging, Mesh the air scoop, Fitting white dials, Twin rear fog lamps)
  
• changement suspension avant et arrierre (anglais mais avec photos)
  
• montage des amortisseurs nismo G-ATTACK sur s14
  
  
  100 nx
  
• montage de cligno blanc sur 100nx
  
• montage de suspension kayaba sur 100nx
  
• montage d'une BAR sur 100nx
  
  
  

Dénominations et caractéristiques des moteurs Nissan

A10 - 988cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 62hp - Sunny B10, 1000, B20 Pick-up

A12 - 1171cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 58hp - Sunny B110&B210, 1200, 1200 Pick-up

A14 - 1397cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 76hp - Sunny B210&B310

A15 - 1488cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 80hp - Sunny B310

C - 988cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 1 barrel down draught carb - 37hp - 210 Bluebird, S211 Sports, 220 Pick-up

C1 - 988cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 45hp - 311 and 312 Bluebird (base model cars)

CA16-DE - 1597cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, twin spark plug, EFI - 113hp - Pulsar Exa Coupe

CA18-DE - 1809cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, twin spark plug, EFI - 130hp - Silvia (1988), Pulsar Exa Coupe

CA18-DET - 1809cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, twin spark plug, EFI - 174hp - Silvia (1988), 180SX, Gazelle, Auster 1800tt

CA20-S - 1974cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 8 valve, twin spark plug, 2 barrel d/d carb - 98hp - Bluebird (1985)

CA20-E - 1974cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 8 valve, twin spark plug, EFI - 104hp - Gazelle (1985)

CG13-DE - 1275cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, twin cam, 16 valve, EFI - 73hp - Micra

D10 - 860cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 1 barrel down draught carb - 25hp - DC-3, 110 sedan, 120 Pick-up

E - 1189cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 1 barrel down draught carb - 48hp - Bluebird 211&310, 222 Pick-up, Fairlady SP212

E1 - 1189cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 60hp - Bluebird 311,312&410, 223&320 Pick-up

E13 - 1270cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 59hp - Pulsar E (1985)

E15 - 1488cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 69hp - Pulsar (1985), Prarie

E16 - 1597cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - ??hp - Pulsar (1985)

E15-ET - 1487cc - OHC 4 cylinder, EFI, turbo - 115hp - Pulsar Exa Coupe, Pulsar Turbo

FJ20-E - 1990cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, EFI - 150hp - Silvia RS (1982)

FJ20-ET - 1990cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, EFI, turbo - 190hp - Silvia RS-X, Gazelle RS-X, Skyline RS-X (1982)

G - 1488cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 77hp - Cedric 30, Junior 40, Caball C140

G - 1488cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, single side draught 'SU' carb - 75hp - Fairlady SP310 (1962-1963)

G - 1488cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 85hp - Fairlady SP310 (1963-1965)

GA4 - 1484cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 73hp - Prince Skyline ALSIE

GA16-DE - 1595cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, twin cam, 16 valve, EFI - 115hp - Pulsar (1996)

GB30 - 1862cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 83hp - Prince Gloria, Skyline ALSID, Skyline Sport BLRA

GRX-3 - 5954cc - DOHC 12 cylinder, twin cam, 48 valve V12, MFI, dry sump - 580hp - R382 race car

GRX-3 KAI - 5954cc - DOHC 12 cylinder, twin cam, 48 valve V12, MFI, dry sump - 660hp - R383 race car

G1 - 1484cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 73hp - Prince Skyline S50, Miler 430

G2 - 1862cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 96hp - Prince Super Miler 431, Clipper T631

G7 - 1988cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 106hp - Prince Gloria S40, Skyline GTA S54A

G7 - 1988cc - OHC 6 cylinder, triple 2 barrel side draught Weber carbs - 127hp - Prince Skyline GTB S54B

G11 - 2494cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 134hp - Prince Gloria S41

G15 - 1483cc - OHV 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb, cross flow head - 94hp - Skyline 1500

G18 - 1815cc - OHV 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb, cross flow head - 105hp - Laurel C30

H - 1883cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 95hp - Cedric 31, Junior 40, Caball C141

H20 - 1982cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 92hp - Junior 41, Caball C142

H20 - 1982cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 99hp - Cedric 130, E20 van

H30 - 2974cc - Pushrod 6 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 130hp - President H150, G80 truck

J13 - 1299cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 67hp - Bluebird 411, 520 Pick-up

J13 - 1299cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 77hp - Bluebird SS P411-MTK sports sedan

J15 - 1483cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 77hp - 521&620 pick-up

J16 - 1567cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 81hp - Homer T20

J20 - 1973cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 109hp - Cedric 130, Caball C240

K - 2873cc - Pushrod 6 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 118hp - Cedric Special 50

KA24-E - 2389cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 12 valve, EFI - 128hp - Pintara (1990)

KA24-DE - 2389cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, twin cam, EFI - 150hp - Pintara (1994)

L13 - 1290cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 77hp - Bluebird 510

L16 - 1595cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 96hp - Bluebird 510, 1600, 521&620 pick-up (USA)

L16 - 1595cc - OHC 4 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 109hp - Bluebird 510 SSS, 1600SSS

L18 - 1770cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 105hp - Bluebird 610, 180B, 720 Pick-up

L18 - 1770cc - OHC 4 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 110hp - Bluebird SSS 610, 180B SSS

L20 - 1998cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 115hp - Cedric 130,230,330&430, Skyline GC10

L20-ET - 1998cc - OHC 6 cylinder, EFI, turbo - 144hp - Skyline (Japan only)

L20B - 1952cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 93hp - Bluebird 810&910, 200B

L23 - 2262cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 123hp - Cedric 130

L24 - 2362cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 130hp - Cedric 130&230, 240C

L24 - 2362cc - OHC 6 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 151hp - 240Z

L24E - 2362cc - OHC 6 cylinder, EFI - 124hp - Skyline (1984)

L26 - 2565cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 138hp - Cedric 230&330, 260C

L26 - 2565cc - OHC 6 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 162hp - 260Z

L28 - 2753cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 139hp - Cedric 330&430, 280C, Patrol

L28 - 2753cc - OHC 6 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 170hp - 280Z, 280ZX

L28E - 2753cc - OHC 6 cylinder, EFI - 180hp - 280C (1983), 280ZX

MA09-ERT - 930cc - OHC 3 cylinder, 6 valve, turbo and supercharged, EFI - 110hp - March Super Turbo (1989)

MA10-ET - 987cc - OHC 3 cylinder, 6 valve, turbo, EFI - 75hp - March Turbo (1988)

P40 - 3956cc - Pushrod 6 Cylinder, 1 barrel down draught carb - 135hp - Patrol

R - 1595cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb - 81hp - Homer T641

R - 1595cc - Pushrod 4 Cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 96hp - Fairlady SP311, Silvia CSP311, Bluebird SSS R411

RB20-DE - 1998cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI - 155hp - Laurel, Skyline (1989)

RB20-DET - 1998cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI, turbo - 214hp - Skyline GT-S, Cefiro (1989)

RB25-DE - 2498cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI - 179hp - Skyline, Cefiro (1992)

RB25-DET - 2498cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI, turbo - 250hp - Skyline GT-S25T (1993)

RB26-DETT - 2597cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI, twin turbo - 279hp - GODZILLA! Skyline GT-R HR32

RB30-E - 2962cc - OHC 6 cylinder, 12 valve, EFI - 152hp - Skyline (1987)

S20 - 1988cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, triple 2 barrel s/d carbs - 160hp - Skyline GT-R KPGC10, Fairlady Z432

SD22 - 2164cc - Pushrod 4 cylinder, diesel - 61hp - 220C, Caball

SD23 - 2289cc - Pushrod 4 cylinder, diesel - 72hp - Urvan (1983)

SD25 - 2499cc - Pushrod 4 cylinder, diesel - 76hp - Navara (1985)

SD33 - 3246cc - Pushrod 6 cylinder, diesel - 94hp - Patrol

SD33T - 3246cc - Pushrod 6 cylinder, diesel, turbo - 108hp - Patrol

SR18-DE - 1838cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, EFI - 139hp - Sunny GTS, Pulsar GTi (1992)

SR20-DE - 1998cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, EFI - 159hp - Silvia Q (1993), Presea

SR20-DET - 1998cc - DOHC 4 cylinder, 16 valve, twin cam, EFI, turbo - 205hp - Silvia K, 180SX, Pulsar GTiR 4WD (1993)

TD27 - 2663cc - Pushrod 6 cylinder, diesel, cross flow head - 77hp - Navara (1993)

U20 - 1982cc - OHC 4 cylinder, twin side draught 'SU' carbs - 135hp - Fairlady SR311

U20 - 1982cc - OHC 4 cylinder, twin 2 barrel side draught Solex carbs - 150hp - Fairlady SR311

UY - 2 litre - DOHC 6 cylinder, twin cam, 12 spark plug, 2 distributors - ???hp - Fairlady S race car.

VG20-ET - 1998cc - OHC V6, 6 cylinder, 12 valve, EFI, turbo - 170hp - Gloria V20 (1983)

VG30-E - 2960cc - OHC V6, 6 cylinder, 12 valve, EFI - 179hp - Gloria V30E (1983), 300ZX

VG30-ET - 2960cc - OHC V6, 6 cylinder, 12 valve, EFI, turbo - 230hp - 300ZX Turbo (1983)

VG30-DE - 2998cc - DOHC V6, 6 cylinder, twin cam, 24 valve, EFI - 225hp - 300ZX, Leopard (1989)

VG30-DET - 2998cc - DOHC V6, 6 cylinder, twin cam, 24 valve, EFI, turbo - 254hp - Leopard (1990)

VG30-DETT - 2998cc - DOHC V6, 6 cylinder, twin cam, 24 valve, EFI, twin turbo - 278hp - 300ZX Twin Turbo

VG33-E - 3274cc - OHC V6, 6 cylinder, 12 valve - 168hp - Pathfinder, QX4

VH41-DE - 4130cc - DOHC V8, 8 cylinder, 32 valve, EFI - 269hp - Cima 41 (1996)

VH45-DE - 4494cc - DOHC V8, 8 cylinder, 32 valve, EFI - 278hp - Infiniti Q45

VQ30-DE - 2987cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI - 230hp - Cedric, Gloria (1996)

VQ30-DET - 2987cc - DOHC 6 cylinder, 24 valve, twin cam, EFI, turbo - 269hp - Cima 30 (1996)

Y40 - 3988cc - Pushrod V8, 8 cylinder, 16 valve, 4 barrel down draught carb - 195hp - President H150

Y44 - 4414cc - Pushrod V8, 8 cylinder, 16 valve, 4 barrel down draught carb - 200hp - President

Z18-ET - 1770cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 8 valve, twin spark plug, EFI, turbo - 135hp - Silvia ZSE-X, Gazelle (1982)

Z20 - 1952cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb, cross flow head - 88hp - Urvan (1983)

Z22 - 2188cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb, cross flow head - 95hp - Navara (1985)

Z24 - 2389cc - OHC 4 cylinder, 2 barrel down draught carb, cross flow head - 99hp - 720 Pick-up

realisation d'un apexi induction box par ilovejapan2

Je me suis attaqué hier soir et ce soir à la réalisation de mon pare chaleur pour mon filtre JWT.

J'ai d'abord commencer à faire un patron à partir d'un plan et j'ai volontairement coupé un peu plus large:





Ensuite essai dans la baie moteur et marquage des ajustements à faire








Puis je me suis occupé du découpage. C'est long et chiant! La tôle utilisée est de l'acier galvanisé épaisseur 1mm, suffisante pour garantir une bone rigidité de l'ensemble. Ca m'a couté environ 10€ la plaque de 50x50cm.








Le pliage de la tole à l'aide calles en bois pour essayer de plier droit (pas évident)






Voilà, fini!





Reste plus qu'à tester ça en place... Zut j'aurais du prolonger un peu la partie à coté de la sortie de l'intercooler





J'ai poursuivi le réalisation de ma boite avec la réalisation du capot.

D'abord mise en place des équerres en alu et d'une pate de fixation du heatshield au réservoir de liquide de direction assistée.



les équerres sont fixés à l'aide de rivets, et environ 2mm en-dessous du bord de l'autre tole





Ici on voit bien la pate de fixation vers le bocal de direction assistée...





Pour la réalisation du capot, j'ai d'abord réalisé un patron en carton:





Puis réalisé celui-ci





Ajustages...



Et voilà, fini! Le capot est fixé à l'aide de vis à tôle, vu que l'épaisseur des équerres (2mm) le permet.













Je vous conseille de mettre un peu de mousse pour éviter les vibration de la tôle, ce que je manquerais pas de faire bientôt.

toutes les references de pieces pour votre nissan par staf78

http://www.nissan.co.za/buying_parts_passen.asp

attention pour model conduite a droite donc certaine pieces incompatible

bien choisir son IC par SK

http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoole...0and%20Fin?

correspondance codes moteur par tibo extrait de www.nissanprimera.net

correspondance ecu SR20DET par tibo extrait de www.npclub.com

1 Coil pack 1 output (via power transistor Unit)
2 Coil pack 2 output (via power transistor Unit)
3 Tachometer signal output
4 ECCS relay
5 Ignition pulse monitor (for trip comp ?)
6 Ignition Signal Ground
7 RX data (signal from Nissan Consult hand terminal)
8 Coil pack 3 output (via power transistor Unit)
9 Coil pack 4 output (via power transistor Unit)
10 -
11 -
12 A/T signal DT3 (autotrans gear select ?)
13 Ignition Signal Ground
14 CLK clock (timing signal) ?
15 TX data (signal to Nissan Consult hand terminal)
16 AFM Signal input (air flow meter)
17 AFM ground
18 Water temp sensor input
19 Oxygen Sensor input (O2)
20 TPS input (throttle position sensor)
21 Sensor ground
22 CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor)
23 CHK check (check start) ?
24 Monitor check lamp (Red) (fault code lamp output)
25 Exhaust over temp warning lamp output
26 Exhaust temp sensor input (behind the Cat)
27 Detonation sensor input (knock sensor)
28 TPS for A/T (kick down switch)
29 Sensor ground
30 CAS 180deg signal (crank angle sensor)
31 CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor)
32 Speed sensor input
33 -
34 START signal (from ignition switch)
35 A/T neutral switch input
36 IGN (ignition ON, from ignition switch)
37 TPS power output (power to throttle position sensor)
38 ECCS power
39 ECCS ground
40 CAS 1deg signal (crank angle sensor)
41 A/C on input (Air Con ON from A/C panel or climate control)
42 A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
43 Power steering switch (speed proportional control output)
44 A/T signal DT1 (auto trans gear select ?)
45 Ambient air temp sensor input
46 ECCS backup power
47 ECCS power
48 ECCS ground
101 Injector No 1 drive output
102 EAI control solenoid output (EGR valve control ?)
103 Injector No 3 drive output
104 Fuel pump relay output
105 Fuel pressure control module
106 A/C on output (Air Conditioner on relay signal)
107 Injector ground
108 Injector ground
109 Reverse electrical flow return circuit (alternator fail input ?)
110 Injector No 2 drive output
111 Turbo boost pressure control solenoid (over boost cut ?)
112 Injector No 4 drive output

113 AAC valve control (Auxiliary Air Control, idle speed control)
114 -
115 -
116 Injector ground

correspondance ecu CA18DET de tibo extrait de www.npclub.com

ECU PINS - Description of use
1 - Coil pack 1 output (via power transistor Unit)
2 - Coil pack 2 output (via power transistor Unit)
3 - Coil pack 3 output (via power transistor Unit)
5 - Boost pressure control solenoid (domestic Japanese cars only, not Euro models)
6 - Air conditioner relay
7 - Tacho drive output to tachometer
8 - Variable intake butterfly control solenoid (domestic Japanese cars only, not Euro models)
10 - Ground
11 - Coil pack 4 output (via power transistor Unit)
16 - ECCS system relay (earth = on)
17 - Injector pulse duty output (to trip computer for fuel usage measurement)
18 - Fuel pump relay (earth = on)
20 - Ground
23 - Knock sensor input
26 - Air flow meter pin B (ground ?)
27 - Air flow meter pin A
28 - Coolant temp sensor input
29 - Oxygen sensor input (unleaded catalyzer model only)
30 - Sensor earth
32 - Check lamp output to check connector (green)
33 - Check lamp output to check connector (red)
37 - Air flow meter pin D (non cat models ? )
38 - Throttle Position Sensor potentiometer (wiper)
41 - Crank angle sensor 180 deg input
42 - Crank angle sensor 1 deg input
43 - start signal (cranking) from ignition switch
44 - Neutral(manual) / park(auto) gearbox switch signal
45 - Ignition On switch signal
46 - Air conditioner thermostat input (ECU controls AC activation)
47 - To check connector ?????
48 - TPS potentiometer battery output (5 volt?)
49 - Battery from ECCS relay
50 - Ground
51 - Crank angle sensor 180 deg input
52 - Crank angle sensor 1 deg input
53 - Speed sensor input via the speedometer
54 - TPS switch (throttle idle position)
55 - Ambient air temp sensor input (sensor is in front of radiator)
56 - ?????
57 - TPS switch (full throttle position)Auto trans? (kick down switch)
58 - battery, unswitched
59 - battery from ECCS relay
60 - Ground
101 - Injector No 1 drive output
103 - Injector No 3 drive output
106 - AAC (aux/idle air control) valve output
107 - Injector drive ground
108 - Injector drive ground
109 - Battery from ECCS relay
110 - Injector No 2 drive output
111 - ? CA18DET A/T ? or pressure reg control valve?
112 - Injector No 4 drive output
115 - Heater output for O2 sensor (unleaded catalyzer model only)
116 - Injector drive ground

Capacité des injecteurs

pour les injecteur et savoir a partir de quand ils sont niked il y a un pti calcul simple si on prend des injecteur de 370cc par exemple:

• injecteur 370cc a 100% de duty cycle
  370 / 10.2 = 36.275 lbs/heure par injecteur
  36.275 x 2.04 = 74hp supporté par injecteur
  74 x 4 = 296hp supporté par les 4 injecteurs a 100% de duty cycle
  
  
• injecteur 370cc a 75% de duty cycle
  370cc / 100 x 75 = 277.5cc (75% duty cycle)
  277.5 / 10.2 = 27.206 lbs/heure par injecteur
  27.206 x 2.04 = 55.5hp supporté par injecteur
  55.5 x 4 = 222hp supporté par les 4 injecteurs a 75% de duty cycle
  

voila la formule de calcul au complete:

HP supportés par injecteur: HP= (lbs/hr) x 2.04

sachant que:


lbs/heure= cc par minute / 10.2
cc par minute = lbs/heure x 10.2

Merci à Tibo

Tout sur les injecteurs
http://members.tripod.com/~jbabs714/

Swap SR20DET dans primera,100 et autre nissan avec Sr20DE

bon voila le fameux swap du sr20det dans comme exemple une primera P10 enfin infiniti G20 ici, ce qui est relativemetn identique pour 100nx, sunny gti, almera gti

source


First thing you need when doing a swap is motivation. In my case, motivations came in the form of some bent valves. A very small hole in my radiator led to a very large problem


Pretty ugly, huh


Here's a good cure for the "blown motor blues", a brand new used engine!!! In beautiful condition might I add


While pulling off your axle, be sure to take caution, 1/2 inch of craftsman steel is not as strong as it appears.


Even in Breaker Bar form

Driveshaft: 2

Mechanic: 0


So I gave up on pulling out the driveshaft... but I still yanked it out of the transaxle and continued on. Notice the jackstands, 26-inch tall jackstands allowed me to slide the old engine out, and slide the new engine in.


This is the wrong way to jack up your car. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.


Out with the Old, In with the new. Now comes the all important preparation stage. Doing the right thing here, can save you countless hours of agony later on down the road. I found a place which sold me the stand and the crane new in boxes for $220


I was told that the Pulsar flywheel would not fit in the FWD Sr20 tranny. The holes in the flywheel do not mate with the holes in the Pulsar crank, but a machine shop was able to open them up. It worked perfectly. Additionally, I decided to have the main bearing journals replaced, and the crankshaft Nitrate-Treated to reduce the likelihood of cracking.


The stock motor mount does not line up with the holes on the GTi-R motor, notice the top hole of the bracket is not lined up.


But a little trimming with the Dremel and it fit snug.


I thought I'd replace the drive belts, however the Pulsar belt was significantly smaller. I ended up getting a new Pulsar belt for it. Trust me, it won't fit. Not a bad idea to order two, incase you ever need to replace this belt again.


Because the Pulsar motor is 4wd, the car has additional supports built into the aluminum upper oil pan. These need to be "trimmed" in order for the cross-member to fit. I had this done professionally.


This is my super ghetto method of plugging the resulting hole in the pan. This is crucial because you don't want water to flood the clutch/flywheel if you hit a water puddle.


The O2 sensor that came with the car was damaged during delivery. I found a compatible Nissan sensor, it was off a 300z, I forget the year. I have the part number somewhere.


After a full day of gently wrestling with this seal, I found that the "screwdriver" the manual suggested faired poorly at actually removing it. Needle nose vice grips did in 10 seconds, what a screwdriver could not. Don't believe everything you read.


Stupid seal


I had an equally difficult time trying to get this seal installed without damaging it. I don't know what that shadow could be.


The TPS wires needed to be switched. I snipped and spliced the stock harness. You just have to reverse two wires. I don't recall, but I believe they were color-coded.


I couldn't find a plug that would fit on this purple sensor. I believe it was for the idle up. I ended up just soldering the wires directly to the sensor. Worked.


Here is what it looked like when I was done.


A must for this swap, a clutch/flywheel combo. I chose a Southland dual friction clutch, mated with an ACT street pressure plate. The clutch broke within 4 months, and the Pressure plate I think was to blame. Southland clutch was of course very generous, and repaired the broken clutch for me no problem. I have always had good luck with that company. Notice I started fitting a small front mount intercooler. I ended up repositioning it lower, so it sits flush with the bottom of the frame.


I used the Pulsar ECU bracket to make mounting brackets for the intercooler. I used the ripples in the metal to further support the weight of the IC.



Here it is with the steel bumper in place. At this point, the engine is in the car.


Another shot of the brackets on the bottom.


Due to the IC plumbing, it was clear that the battery would have to be relocated to the trunk, I used some 1-gauge wire for this, and a plastic battery box for this task. Looks great in the trunk, and allows me to have less wire for my stereo.


Here's a picture of it in my car. I had to make a custom bracket in order for the throttle cable to function. Once again I used the ECU bracket for this. Notice where the aluminum pipe coming out of the turbo goes to. This points to the entry of the stock IC. Of course this had to be modified to fit front mount.


The charcoal canister doesn't really fit too well; I had to rig it so that it would stay put. The power steering ended up leaking really bad as well, however I don't think I could put the USDM one on in place. Or possibly I chose not to because my old one didn't work. I don't remember.


Notice the awkward angle of the power steering hose, may have something to do with its failure. If anyone knows a hose that fits this without alteration, please let me know. In the meanwhile, I have grown fond of not having power steering. (Yeah Right)


Here is the solution to the problem; what do I do to get this hose pointed the right way. Cut it off, rotate and reattach it. This way the turbo oil feed hose still has the stock support in place.


I decided to run the IC pipe through this hole. The stock airbox used to come through here. I widened it just enough to fit 2 pipes of 2' diameter. I spray painted a template onto this section. I know it's ghetto, but nobody can see this part anyway.


These little things got in the way of the intercooler, so I ripped them off. They held on a part, which kept the bottom of the bumper in good form. Wish Nissan would of put some of these in the upper corners of the bumper, mine are sagging like a pair of old woman's breasts.


Here is another shot of the IC installation. You can see the air intake on the toolbox on the floor. The Intercooler piping was very tricky, but when it was done, worked great. The only shortcoming is the length. I would have run a pipe through each fender of the car, for a shorter length, however the ABS was very much so in the way of this. I have an idea for a shorter length of piping, which will allow for a slightly larger diameter. I will post pictures if and when I implement it. To fabricate the piping, I simply used a ruler to find the tangent lines of the pipes, and connected them with a straight edge. I bought a pipe cutter from home depot, and a bunch of cutting bits. (I needed a bunch) I still have yet to weld them, it's held together with these connectors to this day. (I really really really do not advise this) I have not had it welded because I plan to change it around.


This is what my piping looked like when I was done. It is still like this today as well. Over a year after the installation. I know I know, ghetto. Oh well, it works.


Here I started on the upper section of the Intercooler piping. The air intake that goes between the MAF and the Turbo intake was an SR20 Development special. They helped me immensely throughout my installation.


The final touch to the plumbing was this custom piece, a loaner from SR20 Development. It has the flex tubing positioned just right. Notice the Oil Pan is all scratched up. It was from dragging the engine around on it before I installed it. I ended up taking it off and pounding it flat again after I bottomed out a month later. SR20 DET engines are known to occasionally fail shortly after installation. I of course wanted to avoid this, which is why I made sure the OIL pickup was clearing the oil pan before I installed the engine. Also why I had the main bearings replaced.


This is the way I fixed that problem


A photo of the garage during mid-installation. It was a very tight squeeze.


The injectors that come on the Pulsar require dropping resistors to be installed. This is what my installation looked like. I held the wires in place using small zip ties.


This is the first attempt I made at fitting the larger 300z twin turbo fuel pump into the stock housing. This did not come close to fitting.


This is take two


This is what I ended up doing. The screened section at the end is pressed against the floor of the fuel tank, so I did not use a clip or retainer to keep it on.


And for the finishing touch, I had to do something to make the trunk close. Surprisingly, this bracket from the EGR on the stock SR20 fit perfectly. I know I know...


Done, and it only took two months. Vrrrooooom .Pssshhhhh!!!

I ended up adding a HKS Sequential BOV, and am buying a fat big brake set up as well. I will post installation photos of that as well.

manque plus qu'une personne qui parle bien la langue de moliere traduise pour que tout le monde puisse comprendre meme si c'est pas bien compliqué se qu'il y a d'ecris


aller a vos swap

le reste ici :https://www.japancar.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58799

Ou trouver des pieces OEM

http://car-part.com/
http://www.prostreetonline.com/parts/nissan/200sx/
http://www.performancenissanparts.com/ca...th=145_158
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...ryID=41955
http://www.courtesyparts.com/
http://www.i-m-racing.com/nissan.html
http://www.jdm-per4mance.com/
http://www.300zx.lv/
http://www.czp.us/
http://www.performancenissanparts.com/
http://www.ooparts-international.co.jp./
http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/

Système de brumisation de l'IC

tout ici